ZERO TO 136 MPH IN 9.9 SECONDS!!

Since most of the conversion is just like any other transmission removal and installation,
this will cover only the steps that are unique to this particular project.
If you do not know how to change a transmission, please get familiar with the
procedures first.  This will be an easy conversion if you know how to do
 a typical transmission swap, but if you are first learning, this may sound a bit
confusing, so read this a couple times first as entertainment before starting.

As far as we can tell from the models we have worked on (Lark, Hawk, 2R pickup),
this conversion does NOT require the engine to be removed from the vehicle.
People have told me the Avanti and the 1951 sedan is a bit tight, but still doable.
Please remove your distributor cap before doing anything, so you will have room to
tilt the engine for easier trans removal and installation when the time comes.

We will start by assuming you have already removed the driveshaft, speedometer cable,
and whatever transmission was in the car. Remove the Stude dowel pins from the back
of the engine, and anything still bolted on the crankshaft.

Clean the outside edge of the crankshaft flange with sandpaper to remove any
rust, dirt or other buildup that could make the flywheel a tight fit.
I try to make sure the crank hub fits snugly to provide accurate location of
the torque convertor. I have gotten a few complaints of a very tight fit, but
it usually turns out that the crankshaft was not cleaned and still had a build up
of rust or dirt.  Please make sure you sand off any rust or dirt.

Bolt the adapter plate to the Studebaker block loosely. It may take a little wiggling to
get the square shaped centering plate in the center of the larger adapter plate to
fit down over the crankshaft flange.   Don't get rough.  You  don't want to make the
alignment plate shift on the adapter plate.  They are dowel pinned and bolted together
and are pretty sturdy, but the alignment can be disturbed by overly rough treatment.
Make sure all the bolts are threaded in to the block to make sure all the bolt holes line up
before tightening any of the bolts.  When all the bolts are in place,
tighten the adapter plate to the block SECURELY. 

It is now time to drill new dowel pin holes through the plate and into the engine block.
Use the 3/16 drill bit included in the kit. Choose one of the small holes in the engine plate
after careful checking to make sure your choice will not cause you to drill into an oil or
water passage in the engine.  Drill while carefully monitoring the depth of the hole, tap in
one of the dowel pins included in the kit.  Repeat for the other dowel pin locations. 
If you prefer to use the Stude dowel pin locations for security, PLEASE make sure
that you pin the plate in place on the engine with the small dowels FIRST so you won't

Make sure the dowels are pushed in flush with the adapter plate so the
transmission will fit flat against the plate.
TIP- Please put the drill bit deep enough in the drill chuck to prevent drilling
too deep into the engine and damaging something.

If the working room under the car is such that you don't have room to drill
the top dowel hole, don't worry, you can use the other two small dowels to
keep the plate from moving, and then use the Stude dowel locations  by
drilling from the front into the plate.  That plate will still be securely fastened
 without the need for all of the pins to be used.

Make sure that the top three  bolts holding the adapter plate to the engine are TIGHT.
You need to remove the two lower "bellhousing" bolts. The ones right by the Stude dowel
pin locations.  Those two lower locations will have longer bolts installed a bit later.-

Now that the adapter plate is anchored, remove the alignment plate from
 the center of the larger engine plate.  If the small dowel pins do not come off
with the plate, remove them with pliers or vise grips.
If you find a stubborn one that will not come out even with a
strong grip, you can usually push it down flush with a small hammer.
Just make sure it is out of the way of any moving parts.
STORE THE ALIGNMENT PLATE FOR LATER just in case
you want to move the adapter to another engine in the future.

Now that the crankshaft is exposed, you will start on the
flywheel and hub assembly.
Do not put it on the crankshaft yet.

Take the flywheel and hub assembly and test fit it to the
torque converter. Make sure the pilot hole in the hub will fit over
the pilot on the converter. It should be around 1.703 or 1.705
GM had a wider variance than that in it's pilot size, so make sure it
goes in to the hub OK, and that you can get the converter holes
lined up with the holes in the flywheel.
If you have the wrong converter, now is the best time
to find that out.
If your converter pilot is really small, you will need to trade your
converter for the usual one with the 1.702 pilot 
(I think 90% of GM 6 and V8 trannys used the 1.702)

You can now bolt on the flywheel.

You may have to rotate it a few times before the holes will line up.
Remember that Stude drilled the holes in a staggered fashion
where you will have to line up the pattern before you can  put
all the bolts in.
If you are replacing  a standard transmission with an
automatic, you will need to check that the long crankshaft bolts
do not stick out so far as to contact the torque converter. So far,
the converters I have seen will clear the bolts, but they are close, so
I recommend cutting or grinding them a few threads shorter
AFTER the flywheel is bolted on.
If you are installing this adapter on a car that has the
factory installed auto trans crankshaft bolts (shorter than
the stickshift bolts), you will need to need to use locktite on
the nuts instead of using the original lockwashers.  I recommend
getting some ARP nuts with the built-in shoulders #300-8332
if the engine is already assembled.
If you have the engine apart, you can simply use 6 grade 8
3/8 fine thread bolts. They make a perfect replacement for
the original bolts after you grind one of "flats" on the hex head to
match the original bolt "flat". The flat is there simply to prevent the bolt
from rotating by resting next to a crankshaft shoulder.
You can only change these bolts by removing the oil pan and
lower rear main bearing cap, then rotating the crankshaft as you
change the bolts a couple at a time.

Most people find it handy to use the stock bolts just as they are...